Method of making welting



April l1, 1933. w. G. BARBOUR METHOD QF MAKING WELTINGA Filed Aug. 2, :.950

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IN VENT OR /whw `ORNEY l Patented pr. 1v1, 1933 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE WALTER G. HARBOUR, OF QUINCY, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSICNOB.Y To PELELEY E. BARBOUR,

OE QUINCY, MASSACHUSETTS, DOING BUSINESS As BARBOUR WELTINC COMPANY, f

F BROCKTON, MASSACHUSETTS METHOD OF MAKING WELTING Application med August 2, 1930.V serial NO.'472,722.

My invention relatesto shoe welting and is especially concerned with the preparation of fillets and strips in the form of stitch- 4 down welting although its use may be eX- itended to the lighter weights of Goodyear and other welting varieties.

The object of my invention is to ut-ilize all portions of the leather stock without waste and to produce welting from ungrained stock of Substantial equal quality to that obtained from grain-faced stock.

To the accomplishment of this object my invention consists in the novel processes and method of manufacture hereinafter described.

A better understanding of the invention will be had by reference to the two somewhat exaggerated perspective views of the accompanying drawing illustrative of the steps employed in practising my method in which '20V Figure 1 shows the Step of split-ting a grain ribbon from an unlimited long fillet which has the natural grain of the stock on one face; and Fig. 2 shows an unlimited long roll of grain ribbon in process of being secured to an ungrained fillet in this instance cut wholly from the flesh of the stock.

The grain fillet indicated by 10 (Fig. 1) is formed by the usual method, that is, after the shoulder or other portion of the hide has been stripped these strips are scarfed and joined and this unlimited long hide fillet is evened and then split widthwise'into a grain fillet, such as 10, and a fiesh fillet. The thickness or substance of the grain fillet thus produced may vary but for use as stitchdown welting it may be substantially 2/32 of an inch. The thickness of the unlimited long hide fillet is more generally about 1/8 of an inch, although it varies from this, which when split to obtain the grain fillet 10 will yield also a flesh fillet of substantially the Same substance, i. e. 2/32 of an inch. In practising my method I Work one grain fillet and one fiesh fillet to produce two grain fillets.

It is the usual practice to skive the grain Ystep is illustrated by l* fillets, removing a thingrain ribbon 12 of substantially paper thickness incorporating. the Shelly outer Surface of the' grain. This `ig`-.' 1 leaving a grain fillet 14 having a grain face from which the' harder andless-fiexible outer surface has been removed. The grain ribbon 12 is wound on the spindle 1-5 of a reel, conveniently as it is split, and is used in these unlimited long strips `in the Second step of my method. I now feed a fiesh or any ungrained fillet 16y (Fig.- 2) through a suitable guide, having first cemented the side which faces upward while in the guide, and support the roll. of grain ribbon 12 in position to be fed forward with the ungrained fillet and be pressed'up'on its cemented-face. I prefer to use latex cement which provides a bond of great strength andpermits-the paper-like grain lribbon toV lie smoothly adhered over the entirer area of the fillet face to which it is al plied.

vI-thus produce a compositel liet-18 or strip i Y useful for stitchdown and other welting, in

unlimited long lengths which consists, inthe illustrated example, of a fillet' 16 cut whollyk from the Aflesh but'yet having a grain face making it the substantial equivalentv of the grain fillet 14. The hide fillet, when prepared for the manufacture of Stitchdown welting, isY ofv such widthfthat a multiplel number of Stitchdown strips are obtained by cutting either fillet 14 or 18 longitudinally by parallel spaced cuts but my'method is applicable to any width of fillet and even to a strip for a single Stitchdown welt. V

After the grain ribbon 12 has been removed to produce the grain fillet 14 the skived face thereof is redressed and reprocessed to provide the desired surface and color. Either the inner or outer Vface of the ribbon may be cemented-` to the flesh fillet. When the ribbon is applied with its outer Shelly Vface outward I may skive the grain face of the composite fillet lSgre-moving only an extremely lightJ portion comprising the Shelly outen ggf vcan be re-colored and redressed in any deksired manner. This final step is Vnot illustrated since Fig. l illustrates the same method of skiving a thin ribbon from a face of a fillet.

I specifically do not confine myself to any articula-r width or thickness of leather with which to work in carrying out my invention. Factory processes yield both grain ribbons and fiesh strips in unlimited long lengths and of varying widths and by matching widths all' can Vbe used. Thus 'my method not only produces welting that has better wearing qualities and a better appearance VALTER lGr. BARBOUR.

but it also saves valuable stock that otherwise would be classed as Waste. i

In some of my claims I have referred to the securing of an unlimited long thin grain ribbon to one face of an unlimited long ungrained fillet. I do not fmean thereby to limit my invention to the use of'a-n ungrained fillet made of a single splitting of leather.Y

because obviously such ungrained fillet may be made of several splittings cemented together to obtain a fillet of the desired thickness, and the term an ungrained llet -is inclusive of both kinds. The important feature ,of my invention is the transformation of an ungrained fillet, however prepared, into a grain fillet by applying thereto an unlimited long grain ribbon, the eXact nature of the body of the resultant welting being immaterial except as it affects the quality of the final product.

i The natureand scope of my invention having been indicated and the manner of practicing my method having been described, what is claimed as new is I l. The method of making composite welding fillets and strips which comprises removing an unlimited long thin grain ribbon from the face ofr an unlimited long grain fillet and then securing this ribbon as a progressive process to one face of an unlimited long ungrained fillet.

2. The method of making composite welting fillets and strips which comprises removing an unlimited long thin grain ribbon from the face of an unlimited long grain fillet, rolling said ribbon on a reel, and then unreeling said ribbon and pressing it vprogressively upon-a cemented face of an unlimited long ungrained fillet fed forward in timed relation to the advance of said ribbon.

3. The method of making composite welt-l ing which consists in forming an unlimited long hide fillet by scarfing and oining strips cut from the hide, splitting said hide fillet widthwise to produce an unlimited long grain fillet and an unlimited long flesh fillet, stripping an unlimitedlong paper-like grain ribbon from the grain fillet, and securing said grain ribbon to oney face of the fiesh fillet.

llet to remove just the shelly face v lili? 

